Installation guidelines

Read before installing

Vinyl plank is designed to replicate a real wood floor, so variation in surface texture, color, grain pattern and gloss is intentional. Work out of several cartons at once — it is what makes the finished floor read as natural rather than repetitive.

• The installer and/or end user is responsible for inspecting the floor before installing. If a plank is questionable on color, pattern, texture, gloss level or milling, do not install it. The manufacturer cannot be responsible once a plank is installed.
• Because of the precise milling of the tongue-and-groove clic system, subfloor flatness needs to be within 3/16″ in a 10′ radius for best performance.
• Maintain a 1/4″ expansion space along both edges and ends of the boards, and between any walls or vertical obstructions.
• The floor is waterproof, but it is not a moisture barrier. Proper waterproofing practices still apply to protect the home from moisture issues.

Direct sunlight & sunrooms

• Prolonged direct sunlight can cause the flooring to expand from the heat, which may result in buckling, gapping or lifting. Sunlight can also cause fading or discoloration.
• Rooms with large amounts of sunlight exposure — including sunrooms, solariums, and rooms with large windows, glass doors or skylights — require UV protective film, blinds, curtains or shades to protect the flooring from direct sunlight.
• Keep window treatments closed during peak sunlight hours.

Acclimation

Acclimation of material prior to installation is suggested (24 hours) but not required. Where material is acclimated, hold it in the area to be installed between 55°F and 100°F (12.78°C to 38°C). Protect flooring from excessive heat or cold in storage.

If the product is stored somewhere other than the installation site and that space is held within the same 55°F to 100°F range, offsite acclimation is acceptable — but the material must then be delivered directly to the site with no stops in between.

Pre-installation jobsite checklist

• Order additional footage over the measured area to allow for cutting wastage. 10% overage is recommended.
• Jobsite conditions are beyond the control and responsibility of the manufacturer.
• Inspect each piece before installing. Do not install any questionable or objectionable pieces.
• Crawlspaces below the flooring must be properly ventilated.
• Room temperature before, during and after installation should be consistent with normal living conditions — roughly 65–75°F and 30–50% relative humidity.
• Do not install in unconditioned spaces — areas within the building that are not heated, cooled, humidified or dehumidified. Installations in unconditioned spaces are not covered by the warranty.

Water traveling over or around the outer edges of the floor can damage the subfloor. Water damage and associated conditions are not warranted, and other contaminants can migrate up as well; these are not manufacturing conditions.

In a lavatory, bathroom, laundry room or any area with frequent water use, fill the expansion spaces around wet areas — and only those areas — with a premium 100% waterproof silicone caulk. That reduces the chance of water traveling under the floating floor and limits bacterial growth.

Do not install fixed objects such as cabinets, islands or wall units on top of the flooring, and do not fasten trim, molding or transition pieces directly to the floor. Refer to the warranty for rolling loads.

Subfloor requirements

• Subfloor must be clean, structurally sound and tight, and visibly dry.
• Floor must be flat to within a 3/16″ in 10′ radius tolerance.
• Acceptable substrates: concrete slab, OSB or plywood subfloor, non-cushion-backed sheet vinyl or linoleum, and ceramic/porcelain tile with grout lines filled for flatness. No other substrate is approved.

Wood subfloors

Plywood and OSB must be structurally sound and installed to their manufacturer’s recommendations, with a smooth finish free from spring and deflection. Test wood subfloors for moisture using a calibrated pin-type or pinless moisture meter, used according to the meter manufacturer’s instructions. Take readings across the whole area to be installed and keep written records of the results for warranty purposes.

Concrete

Must be fully cured — at least 60 days old. Flatness must meet or exceed ACI FF25, measured in accordance with ASTM E1155 — follow the procedures within the standard when taking measurements. Most concrete subfloors are not flat enough as poured and need preparation. Fill holes and cracks with a latex-fortified Portland cement-based patching compound, which is the only type recommended. Grind down high areas and fill low areas with the same. Do not use solvents or chemical adhesive removers to strip paint residue or adhesives.

Even though the product is waterproof, slabs must be tested for moisture using either a calcium chloride test per ASTM F1869 or an in-situ relative humidity test per ASTM F2170. A non-destructive moisture meter survey per ASTM F2659 may be used in addition, to screen the slab and find the areas to test — it is a preliminary method and does not replace F1869 or F2170 for acceptance. All moisture testing must be performed strictly in accordance with the procedures in the relevant ASTM standard, including conditioning of the space, the number and location of tests, and test duration. Keep written records of all results for warranty purposes. Moisture in the substrate will not damage the panels, but excessive moisture can migrate to walls and structure and cause bacterial growth if left unattended — which in turn can lead to curling, cupping or doming.

Existing sheet vinyl or linoleum

Existing sheet vinyl or linoleum must be non-cushion-backed, firmly adhered to the subfloor across its whole area, and in good condition. Cushion-backed sheet vinyl must be removed. The floor must be clean and free of contaminants.

Existing ceramic or porcelain tile is acceptable provided the grout lines are filled so the surface is flat. Hardwood and laminate are not approved substrates and must be removed before installation.

Radiant heat

• Turn the heating system off during installation, as well as 24 hours before and 24 hours after.
• After installation, bring the system up to temperature gradually. It should never exceed 85°F.
• Surface-applied heating mats are not an acceptable type of radiant heat.

Before installing your floor

• Plan the layout to allow a 1/4″ expansion space from all vertical obstructions.
• Dry lay several cartons to get a feel for color and surface variation, and to confirm the floor meets the end user's satisfaction. Claims for color, surface and grain variation cannot be accepted once the floor is installed.
• If color-coordinated molding is being used, select the panels that best match the available molding and install those adjacent to it.

Floor installation

• Take precautions with tapping blocks and pull bars so the angle/tap tongue-and-groove system is not damaged.
• Never tap directly against the profile.
• To start the second row, use the remainder of the last panel of the first row if it is 12″ or longer; otherwise cut a new panel in half. It is mandatory to always stagger the end joints from row to row by at least 8″.
• Install one panel at a time, with the grooved end exposed to receive the next panel. Place the profile of the scrap section along the large end of the next panel and tap gently on the scrap until the two ends lock. Avoid locking the scrap to the panel being installed; if it locks, slide it away gently. Never use excessive force.
• For the final piece in a row, use a pull bar to draw it tight and lock the end profiles. Do not strike directly on the locking profile.
• Keep checking that end joints stay properly engaged and the length joint runs straight.
• Install new coordinating baseboards and quarter rounds. Baseboards nail into the wall and quarter rounds into the baseboards — do not nail either into the flooring.

Step 1

Begin working from left to right. Insert 1/4″ spacers at the ends and edges where planks meet the wall.

Step 2

Lock the short end by inserting tongue into groove at roughly 30° and dropping into place. Repeat throughout.

Step 3

Use the remaining plank from your cut piece to begin the next row. Space end joints a minimum of 8″.

Step 4

Lock the long edge at roughly 15° and drop into place. Slide toward the previously installed plank until tongue touches groove.

Step 5 · Important

Use a rubber mallet and tapping block on the long edge for a tight fit. The block should be 10″–12″ long. Any gapping will compromise the locking system.

Step 6

Attach a scrap piece of floor to bridge the gap between the ends of planks.

Step 7

Tap the end of the plank with mallet and tapping block to lock the ends. Remove the support bridge and continue to the end of the row. Tap on the edge of the vinyl so as not to damage the locking profile.

Step 8

Use mallet and pull bar to lock the final piece in the row. Insert a spacer at the end of the row and continue to the final row.

Step 9

Use mallet and pull bar to lock the long edges of the planks on the final row.

Installing under door jambs

Step 1

Undercut the door jamb to give the plank room to slide freely. Tap the long edge with mallet and tapping block to lock it.

Step 2

Use mallet and pull bar to draw in and lock the short end of the plank.

Caring for the floor

Everyday cleaning, surface protection, moisture and sunlight, and what voids a claim are all covered on the warranty & care page, or in the care & maintenance guide (PDF) to hand to the customer.